September 11th, 2024

Not Your Nonna’s Neapolitan

Pizza Capo Embraces Locals, Visitors, and Supporting Community

Multiples pizzas are on a table along with wine and other appetizers.  Several hands are in the photo, grabbing slices or wine glasses.
Pizza and Wine are the perfect pairing. Photos by Schwab Creative.

“Don’t ever open a restaurant right before a global pandemic. I mean it.”

This sage advice comes from the two men sitting across from me. Jeremy Whyte is relaxed, wearing a ball cap with the word “Mortadella” written across it in swirly script font. Ben Stuart looks like he’s on an island vacation, wearing a red Hawaiian-style button up that says “Attitude is Latitude.” Both men are native sons of McMinnville.

I ask them questions about Pizza Capo, the quickly beloved 3rd Street institution, co-owned also by Scott Cunningham and Kyle Munroe. While the restaurant opened in 2019, the pizzaiolos (chefs specially trained to make Italian-style pizza) tested their recipes and skills as a food cart first, often popping up at what is now Foreland Brewing.

“Pizza Capo has actually been three restaurants,” laughs Jeremy. “First, a food cart. Then, a restaurant. Then, a to-go spot during Covid.” Traditional Neapolitan pizza is meant to be cooked quickly at extremely high heat, and enjoyed immediately. The pandemic forced them to rethink their dough recipe to continue to serve quality pizza that would be enjoyed after a drive home.

While the original restaurant was opened by Scott, Kyle, and Jeremy. Ben Stuart was part of the original opening team. After working two years as support staff at Portland hotspot Kachka, he was ready to return home.

A young man with a large grin on his face and a t-shirt that says Pizza Capo holds a pizza.  In the background, a bearded man prepares food in the open kitchen.
Ben Stuart is always serving pies with a smile.

“My mom’s memorial service reminded me of the importance of service, hospitality, and community,” Ben states, wiping his left eye. “When I started at Capo, the guys told me I was green, but they’d teach me everything they knew. And I busted my ass to learn it all. When the opportunity came to become a partner, I was ready to put it all into action.”

The leadership team at Pizza Capo takes pride in how they foster learning on their team. They’ve had three employees from McMinnville High School’s ProStart culinary program, and currently boasts a strong team of locals in both front and back of house. They want to reinforce to locals that while 3rd Street welcomes visitors, it’s first and foremost a place for the community to claim and call home.

What’s new and now at Capo? The restaurant is now open 7 days a week, giving locals and visitors a place to hang on nights when many other hotspots are closed. They’re considering expansion to accommodate opportunities like catering, events, and lunch service – but not too soon. 

“We’ll know when the next right opportunity comes along,” says Jeremy. “If it feels right for the team, but most importantly, right for the community – we’ll pounce.”

Kitri Culbertson (she/her) is a McMinnville writer and owner of Scarlet Communications. Her favorite ‘za at Pizza Capo is the Spicy Salami, and she’ll never turn down an order of burrata.